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Standing on top of a mountain is a special experience. At 5,729 feet, Mount Rogers in Southwestern Virginia is the highest point in the commonwealth. Although Mount Rogers may not be as mighty and grand as Mount Everest in the Himalayas or Mount Blanc in the Alps, it is still a special place located in the heart of the Appalachians. In fact, Mount Rogers is unique amongst the other high points in the South. The majestic stands of Balsam Fir which once thrived on the summits of Mount Mitchell and Clingmans Dome have been devastated over the years by the woody adelgid and acid rain. Remarkably, Mount Rogers has not been affected like these other pinnacles and has a healthy fir forest capping its summit. The downside to this is that there are no views from the summit, but nonetheless it is still a beautiful place. My girlfriend and I decided to spend President's Day Weekend traversing the Appalachian Trail in the vicinity of Grayson Highlands State Park and Virginia's highpoint, Mount Rogers. The trip started well as we were greeted with beautiful blue sky as we entered Grayson Highlands State Park. From the overnight backpacker parking lot, we hiked up the spur trail leading to the 2,100 mile long Appalachian Trail which runs from Georgia to Maine. During the summer months, hundreds of thru-hikers pass through these highlands. As we left the shelter of a mixed hardwood and spruce forest near the parking area, we got our first taste of the relentless wind pouring freely over the treeless terrain. Despite the blustery conditions, the temperature was fairly mild as attested by my attire of shorts and a thin long-sleeved shirt. As we ventured onto the AT we were greeted by the famous Grayson Highland ponies. They were quite friendly and apparently one pony was determined to exact a toll by blocking the trail. However, we were let by unhindered onto the AT. We headed south on the AT eventually intersecting with another spur trail leading down to the Massie Gap parking area. We would have saved about 0.5 miles of hiking if we would have taken this spur trail, but we would have missed the opportunity to see the ponies. 
We hiked further south on the AT and camped near a cluster of trees in the hope that they would protect us from the strong winds whipping across the balds. I awoke several times in the night to the sound of rain pelting the tent and the wind seemingly trying to pry the tent loose from its moorings. When we awoke in the morning a dense fog had enshrouded the highlands and a strong wind was whipping across the balds. The weather had changed drastically overnight. We felt inclined to pack our wet belongings and head back to the parking lot and the warmth of the car, but we decided push forward and hike to the Thomas Knob Shelter about a mile from the summit of Mount Rogers. We had a late start and by the time we reached the shelter it was close to 2 o' clock in the afternoon. The 2.9 mile hike to the shelter was a brutal one. The trail climbed steadily uphill climbing up to Rhododendron Gap and then leveling off with a slight downhill to the shelter. The trail conditions made the hiking even more treacherous with snow, ice, mud, and water on the trail, plus a strong wind which must have been blowing close to 40 mph with gusts up to 60 mph. At times I felt as though I would take to flight as the wind blasted my backpack. Visibility was reduced to around 100 feet with the fog saturating the sky. Once at the shelter we found two groups hunkered down in the dark, log-walled shelter. One group of guys had claimed the loft of the shelter, where they would sleep nice and cozy protected from the icy wind blowing through the main entrance of the shelter. 
The other group was situated around a picnic table inside the shelter eating a late lunch and trying to stay warm. These four guys were from Leesburg, VA and like us were out for a weekend hike. They had hoped to push on but with the worsening conditions they decided to stay put for the night. The fog was still thick and the wind continued to blow fiercely. Ice was beginning to collect on the fir trees outside the shelter creating a beautiful winter wonderland. By morning everything was coated with about an inch of ice. I had a fitful sleep with my feet freezing cold and the wind blowing ice onto my sleeping bag. We had attempted to place a tarp over the front entrance of the shelter. The tarp had helped tremendously, but the wind still whipped inside and by morning had coated the interior in a layer of frost much like the inside of a freezer. I awoke to one of the coldest mornings I have ever experienced as a backpacker. I had not been toasty warm in my 15 degree sleeping bag, but I was hesitant about leaving its confines as the icy wind blasted my face. It was brutally cold and was not surprised to discover that my hiking boots were frozen solid. By 7:30, we managed to escape the shelter once again for the trail. We had the summit of Mount Rogers in mind as we gingerly maneuvered our way down the AT and then up the spur trail leading to the summit. The going was difficult at first as it took time for my frozen boots to warm-up. It was only 0.9 miles to the summit. As we hiked further up the mountain we left the open highlands for a dense fir forest. 
It was a tranquil place with only the sound of the hardened snow underfoot and my labored breathing in the cold mountain air. At the summit, there was a round clearing and the geographic marker signifying that this was indeed the top. It was hard to believe that this was indeed the top with the thick canopy of fir deceiving my senses. We slowly headed back to the shelter, packed our gear, and headed back to Massie Gap. The hike down was an enjoyable one despite the cold conditions. The relentless wind had abated and we could now finally enjoy our surroundings. We passed a large group of Boy Scouts. One of the leaders told me that he had calculated that the wind chill the previous night was close to -18° F. I was not surprised by his estimation and my girlfriend was glad to be heading back to civilization. The fog lifted as we approached the gap giving us one last glimpse of the beautiful grassy highlands. I was pleased to finally relieve myself of the burden on my back, but in a way I was sad to leave this place where ponies reside in the shadow of Virginia's highpoint. Back at work, my co-workers questioned my sanity as I told of my adventurous trip. I will be the first to admit that this was a tough trip. However, that only makes it a greater trip and one that I will definitely never forget. I will one day return to these highlands and till then fond memories will warm my heart as I reflect back on Mount Rogers and the night spent in Thomas Knob Shelter. However, my mind is now focused on the next big adventure that lies around the corner and the purchase of a warmer sleeping bag...
Last Updated: November 22, 2000
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